The Advantages of Canvas Tarps

Tarpaulins (tarps) made of canvas are some of the most versatile tarps on the market today. These tarps can be flame retardant, water resistant, and mildew resistant. Canvas tarps come in several fabric gauges, from 10-ounce to 17-ounce and up. (The higher the number, the heavier and more durable the fabric.) Prices range from around $10 for small, untreated canvas tarps, to hundreds of dollars for large waterproof and fire-retardant models. The tarps come in countless sizes and can be used for a multitude of purposes from painting to landscaping to camping.

One of the most common uses of canvas tarps is to protect furniture, carpets and other items while painting inside or outside. While canvas tarps are more expensive than disposable plastic tarps, they can be used over and over again. Canvas tarps are heavy and will stay in place without a lot of complicated taping and securing, and fit well over curved surfaces. They are usually less slippery than disposable plastic tarps, so they are also safer as there is less chance of injury due to falls.

Canvas tarps can be used when landscaping as well. Lightweight waterproof tarps are perfect for protecting grass or plants during snowstorms. Tarps have been used for decades to cover baseball diamonds and football fields during inclement weather; the tarp can be removed as soon as the rain has stopped and play can usually resume immediately.

Many of the finest tents are made of canvas. Adventurous and inventive campers can make their own camping accommodations with canvas tarps, straps and a few poles. These structures will provide shade, will be water and wind resistant, and are a fraction of the cost of a regular tent.

Canvas tarps are versatile and cost effective. They can be used in many diverse situations and are sturdy and dependable.

Spare Wheels Are So Inconveniently Stored In Modern Cars!

Having been a keen British classic car enthusiast for many years (particularly fond of the Jensen classic cars of the early sixties) I only recently purchased a very advanced luxurious modern car. My new car is packed with what amounts to amazing technology. But even with such expensive modern cars I have found one poor design aspect.

I am referring to the housing of the spare tyre and wheel. In the Jensen CV8 and before that, the Jensen 541S (as was the case with many cars of the early sixties) the spare wheel and tyre were stored under the boot and could be lowered from a point just inside the boot.

The most obvious advantage of this was, that even if the car was full of people and luggage, in the event of having to replace a wheel, one did not have to take the entire luggage out to get at the spare.

If a wheel needed to be changed these days, more often than not, if it is going to happen, it will be in pouring rain! Then the entire luggage would have to be out in the rain, for all the time, it takes to change the wheel and to get the dirty, wet, damaged one back in the boot!

Worst still, many of the new spare tyres now are of a special collapsed type (taking up less space) and the normal tyre will not fit in the space provided. So now the entire luggage and the dirty, wet, tyre will not be possible to fit back in to the boot!

I expect the car manufacturers would claim, if challenged, that such a situation is unlikely to happen as it is true that there seem to be less punctures these days than before. However, I travel a lot in Spain and have found that there is a real risk of having a tyre deliberately punctured (with a knife) as a method employed by thieves intending to steal from you. Once your tyre has been attacked (often at traffic lights) they then follow you and point out your problem, offering to help, whilst another is busy robbing you. This has happened to me twice now, luckily without them succeeding in stealing anything. But on the one occasion my car was really packed full and I realised just how impossible it was to get at my spare.

With my Jensen 541S it was an easy matter to jack the car up whilst keeping dry inside the car. Just in front of the two front seats the carpet was simply pulled away and a sealed cover opened. The Jack was then dropped down this hole and connected to the jacking up fitting, so that as one turned the handle the car could be lifted up.

I do not understand why these aspects are no longer incorporated in our modern designs.

Bumpers: Its Importance, Functions and Where to Find Replacement Bumpers

Bumpers are one of the most essential auto parts. They serve both an aesthetic and practical function. They are also important safety features. Bumpers are made of heavy sheet metal and are mounted on the front and rear of the car. Bumpers are bent and formed into specific shapes in order to absorb and deliver momentum during a collision. In the event of a collision, the bumper absorbs some of the impact, which decreases damage to the car and its occupants. It also protects the front of the car by diverting all of the car’s momentum to the object with which it has collided. The bumper is mounted to the car’s chassis with special impact absorbers. These shock absorbers are often spring loaded. In slow speed collisions, this allows the bumper to compress, and then extend back to its original position. All bumpers are designed to absorb the energy of the impact. They do this through a series of valves and air chambers.

Some car bumpers have hydraulic chambers. In the event of a collision, the absorption unit allows air and/or hydraulic fluid to pass through small openings. Forcing the air/fluid through the valve openings absorbs the energy from the collision. The bumper’s job is to minimize damage, primarily to the occupants of the vehicle and to the vehicle itself. US law requires cars to pass special crash tests at various speeds.

In order to pass, the car’s damage level during the crash must be below a specific dollar level. This protects the consumer and is very important for keeping the cost of automobile insurance to a minimum. Sometimes bumpers are constructed with built-in “crumple zones.” Crumple zones are designed to absorb impact; they will flex on impact. As the metal flexes, the action of the bending metal converts the kinetic energy of the car into heat. Kinetic energy is the energy an object possesses while it is in motion.

GM automobiles are all equipped with capable bumpers that help protect the vehicle from serious damages in the event of a collision. However, like all auto parts, bumpers will eventually get damaged or defective due to accidents, wear and tear and corrosion. Usually such damages will weaken the bumper’s ability to absorb the shock of collision. Thus, it is a necessity to replace old and damaged bumpers with a new one. Replacement GM Bumpers can be purchased from auto parts dealers everywhere. However, to be sure of quality and durability, purchase only from a reliable and trustworthy auto parts store with an established reputation.

1964 1/2 Mustang Myth

1964 1/2 Mustang – seen one? Of course as a Mustang enthusiast you would say sure, of course I have. Check the title work or VIN number? The truth is there never was a 64 1/2 Mustang. Every single one was branded as a 1965 Mustang but made on the Ford production line in 1964. The true identity of these rare ponies was an early 1965 Mustang. But you’re thinking what about the differences? You are very correct about that, there were differences in the “early 65 Mustang and the late 65 Mustang. But for title and registration purposes it was an 18 month production year.

If you want to tell the difference here’s how, the best and most sure way is to look at the original data plate in the door jam. The cars produced between March 9, 1964 and August 17, 1964 will have a letter C-H stamped on the date code.

Of course you are thinking (as a great Mustang Enthusiast) what about the leading edge of the hood, the interior carpet up to the door sills or the car has a generator not an alternator. You are right, those three items changed along with many others from “early to late”. But keep in mind that not everything changed at once. It was a progression that varied by what was changed and what plant the car was built in.

If you are walking through a car show with your significant other and you want to show off your skills then those are three simple items you can use. But, if you’re investing your hard earned money in your dream car, use the data plate and every other method you can find. With most parts widely available it is better safe than sorry.

The actual production of the Mustang began March 9th 1964 in Dearborn, Michigan. Just over a month later the first models go on sale on April 17th 1964. During the first months of production there was no fastback model. So, there never was an early 65 Mustang Fastback even though the first fastback rolled off the assembly line during the second week of August 1964. That’s when the late 65 Mustang began production.

During the early run of the Mustang the 170 ci in line 6 cylinder was the standard engine and the 260 V-8 was the only other engine choice. It wasn’t until the late 65’s emerged that we saw the 6 cylinder go to the 200 ci and the V-8 go to the well known 289.

Just a few months later on January 27th 1965 the first Shelby Mustang was introduced.

How I Replaced the Rusted Floor Pans in My 1962 Chevrolet Chevy II Nova

I bought my 1962 Chevy II Nova in 1988 from a friend I was serving with in the National Guard. The car was rather sound. There were really no problems and I was able to drive it home, in fact, I did no work to the car for a number of years. I would drive it to work a couple of times a week and again take it out weekends. I was really happy with the car. Three years ago, I decided to repaint it. I know I could have taken it to a body shop, but I wanted to do it myself. I wanted this to be a project my son and I could work on together. I began stripping the car down and this is the beginning of my story.

I figure I will be learning a lot during the process of restoring my Nova back to its original beauty, so I thought I would document the processes I will go through and post them online with plenty of pictures with the intent of maybe helping someone else with their project. So lets’ get started!

I have removed everything that I can remove from the body of the car. I did mount an ignition switch on the firewall so I could start the car and move it around but when the actual painting process begins I will be removing the motor and transmission. I started with the floor pans. There was a descent amount of rust in the front and just a little in the rear. The transmission hump and driveshaft tunnel were fine.

I wanted to buy the entire floor pan and replace it all but it was more expensive than I wanted and I wasn’t sure if I could handle a job quite that big. I wasn’t sure if I had the capability to cut out the entire floor and replace it without possibly twisting or contorting the car (it is a convertible). I decided to buy the left and right floor pan. This covered from the front all the way to the back. After receiving the floor pans, I spent a lot of time thinking and rethinking and strategizing about the best way to go about cutting out the old and welding in the new. Since the entire floor pan was not rusted out, I decided to cut out just the rusted part and cut out what I needed from the new replacement floor pans and weld that into place. I am very happy with this decision. By cutting out just the rusted pieces and replacing with new metal, I was able to avoid any twisting or contorting of the car and probably saved me a lot of time.

I was able to cut out the rusted areas in a couple of hours. I used pneumatic shears that worked very well. Before buying the shears, I tried several other methods such as a pneumatic saw, tin snips and aviation cutters. Trust me when I say that a cheap pair of pneumatic shears will be a lifesaver. I did use the aviation cutters for fine cutting and making small adjustment cuts.

Next I separated the front and back of my new floor pans by cutting them in half. I cut out the front part of the floor pan about 2 inches bigger than what I needed. I then placed this into the front for a test fit. When I had the replacement pan in place, I made it conform to the existing floor pan with a rubber mallet. I then used a can of white spray paint and sprayed around the perimeter of the new pan. By painting around the perimeter, I was able to see where the new pan fit after removing it from the car. I repeated this procedure for the other front side and then both rear areas. This took me about a day to complete.

The next part required welding, please be sure to observe all safety practices when welding to avoid any life altering injuries!

I was now ready to weld the replacement sheet metal into place. This is where my brother was a BIG help! He has a MIG welder. We inserted the new pans and while I held them in place, my brother spot welded each one. After each pan was tacked into place, we stepped back and studied their positions and made sure everything was exactly the way I wanted. My brother then completed the welding process until all four replacement pieces was securely welded into place. I don’t know a lot about welding, but I believe my brother had to spend additional time and take extra precautions since the sheet metal is rather thin. After the replacement floor pan pieces were securely in place, I proceeded to cover the seams with Bondo filler and then I painted the entire floor pan with a rust preventive primer. My brother and I were able to complete the welding on Saturday morning and I took the rest of the afternoon to finish the Bondo. I put several coats of paint on the floor pan over the next several days.

From the pictures on my website, you can tell that it might not be a perfectly smooth floor pan with no flaws, but I can assure you that it is a solid installation that will last many years, even longer if garaged, and will look even better once it is covered with a sound dampening material and new carpet. This worked well for my 1962 Chevy II Nova and I am sure it will work for you and your special project.